Scalp scrubs can provide gentle exfoliation to get rid of product build-up at your roots and remove bits of dry, flaky skin. Scalp scrubs can be challenging for formulators: they should be water-based and rinse completely and easily so no exfoliant bits get left behind.

Stepan's Structured Liquid Technology makes it easy to create and customize a clean-rinsing scrub to suit your product development needs. This formulation is step 3 of Stepan's 5-Step Scalp Care Routine.

Instructions For Use: 

Use as a shampoo: Make sure hair is thoroughly wet, and apply directly onto your scalp. Gently massage into a lather, then rinse hair with water thoroughly. Use 1 time a week, or as needed. Follow with your favorite conditioner.

 

Key Ingredients

Stepan Trade Name INCI Name Wt. %
MAPROSYL® 30-B Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 8.80
NINOL® CAA Dimethyl Lauramide/Myristamide 2.00
STEPAN-MILD® GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate 10.60

 

Other Ingredients Wt. %
Glycerin 2.00
Moroccan Amber (Belle Aire Creations) Fragrance 0.25
Witch Hazel Leaf in Propylene Glycol 0.25
Cucumber Fruit Extract in Propylene Glycol 0.25
Deionized Water 74.85
Sodium Benzoate 0.50
Lipo™ APS 40/60 (Vantage Personal Care™) Apricot Seeds 0.50
Citric Acid (50% Solution) q.s

 

Mixing Procedure:

  1. In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, melt STEPAN-MILD® GCC.
  2. Charge MAPROSYL® 30-B, NINOL® CAA, Glycerin, Extracts (Witch Hazel Leaf in Propylene Glycol and Cucumber Fruit Extract in Propylene Glycol) and Fragrance and stir gently using a Jiffy mixer until a homogeneous thin lamellar phase is obtained. Avoid aeration. Continue to mix and heat to 65ºC (149ºF).
  3. For phase 2, charge Deionized Water and Sodium Benzoate in a separate vessel. Heat to 65ºC (149ºF).
  4. Slowly add phase 2 to phase 1 with mixing. Mix using a high-shearing mixer until the lamellar phase completely dissolves and the formulation thickens.
  5. Cool to room temperature.
  6. De-aerate the mixture, if necessary (e.g. using vacuum de-aerator, centrifugation).
  7. Add Lipo™ APS 40/60 using gentle agitation to avoid introducing air into the mixture.
  8. Adjust pH with a Citric Acid (50% Solution) using a gentle agitation to avoid introducing air into the mixture.

 

Physical Properties:

Appearance at 25ºC Light brown, flowable suspension
pH, as is 5.5-6.5 
Viscosity at 25ºC, cps (LVT Spindle 3 at 12RPM) 5,000 - 9,000