Scalp scrubs can provide gentle exfoliation to get rid of product build-up at your roots and remove bits of dry, flaky skin. Scalp scrubs can be challenging for formulators: they should be water-based and rinse completely and easily so no exfoliant bits get left behind.
Stepan's Structured Liquid Technology makes it easy to create and customize a clean-rinsing scrub to suit your product development needs. This formulation is step 3 of Stepan's 5-Step Scalp Care Routine.
Instructions For Use:
Use as a shampoo: Make sure hair is thoroughly wet, and apply directly onto your scalp. Gently massage into a lather, then rinse hair with water thoroughly. Use 1 time a week, or as needed. Follow with your favorite conditioner.
Key Ingredients
Stepan Trade Name | INCI Name | Wt. % |
MAPROSYL® 30-B | Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate | 8.80 |
NINOL® CAA | Dimethyl Lauramide/Myristamide | 2.00 |
STEPAN-MILD® GCC | Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate | 10.60 |
Other Ingredients | Wt. % |
Glycerin | 2.00 |
Moroccan Amber (Belle Aire Creations) Fragrance | 0.25 |
Witch Hazel Leaf in Propylene Glycol | 0.25 |
Cucumber Fruit Extract in Propylene Glycol | 0.25 |
Deionized Water | 74.85 |
Sodium Benzoate | 0.50 |
Lipo™ APS 40/60 (Vantage Personal Care™) Apricot Seeds | 0.50 |
Citric Acid (50% Solution) | q.s |
Mixing Procedure:
- In a suitable vessel equipped with heating and agitation capabilities, melt STEPAN-MILD® GCC.
- Charge MAPROSYL® 30-B, NINOL® CAA, Glycerin, Extracts (Witch Hazel Leaf in Propylene Glycol and Cucumber Fruit Extract in Propylene Glycol) and Fragrance and stir gently using a Jiffy mixer until a homogeneous thin lamellar phase is obtained. Avoid aeration. Continue to mix and heat to 65ºC (149ºF).
- For phase 2, charge Deionized Water and Sodium Benzoate in a separate vessel. Heat to 65ºC (149ºF).
- Slowly add phase 2 to phase 1 with mixing. Mix using a high-shearing mixer until the lamellar phase completely dissolves and the formulation thickens.
- Cool to room temperature.
- De-aerate the mixture, if necessary (e.g. using vacuum de-aerator, centrifugation).
- Add Lipo™ APS 40/60 using gentle agitation to avoid introducing air into the mixture.
- Adjust pH with a Citric Acid (50% Solution) using a gentle agitation to avoid introducing air into the mixture.
Physical Properties:
Appearance at 25ºC | Light brown, flowable suspension |
pH, as is | 5.5-6.5 |
Viscosity at 25ºC, cps (LVT Spindle 3 at 12RPM) | 5,000 - 9,000 |